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2010 EUROPE - CRUISES
Athens
It was another early morning the next day in Rome as we repositioned by
air to Athens. The Maikol gave us a breakfast basket for early departure. I sorely
missed their cappuccino though. We caught the express train to the airport and I even remembered to validate my ticket.
This concluded our Eurail portion of our trip and I survived without any fines! We caught our flight to Athens and a
very different world. It’s much drier and the language is much different. At the airport, none of the metro info
boards made any sense. We were heading to Monasteraki, which I thought was a major metro intersection, but couldn’t
find it listed anywhere. We finally found our way to the metro ticket station and when I said Monasteraki, it was
obvious to the attendant at least that this was a simple destination. He pointed us in the right direction and we
got on the only train there. Inside, there was a nice map with our destination on it. I usually prefer to see my
destination indicated before I board, but things worked a little differently here. At Monasteraki, I amazingly picked
the right metro exit without knowing what to do and headed the right direction on the street so that we had one of our
easiest finds for our hotel.
Too bad that the Cecil Hotel
was our least favorite on the trip. It had been recommended by a friend
of our daughter. The place smelled of a mix of smoke and room freshener, which got worse in the room. The bathroom door
filled the whole bathroom and the shower had a kind of an umbrella shower curtain that could never quite cover the area
that was exposed to water spray, so the floors got very wet. Obviously it was supposed to work that way because there
was a drain right in the middle of the bathroom floor. The elevator was an adventure too. It was encircled by a spiral
staircase and exactly fit the two of us and our two bags. It was a mesh elevator with a manually controlled mesh door.
When you get in, they warn you to keep your hands back as it’s open and you can get your limbs and clothing caught
between floors. It was eerie and fun. The room also had a warning that toilet paper should never be put in the toilet.
No idea what they are thinking in Greece, but we ended up with a work around that involved being out a lot. I also
noticed a faint rumble like distant thunder, but soon realized it came in a pattern of three minute intervals. Although
we were 3 blocks from the metro, the underground subway was still close enough to unsettle our building.
Next we tackled the pick up of our cruise tickets. The hotel staff indicated it was 4 stops on the metro, so off we went.
This turned out to be surprisingly easy and a substantial relief when our tickets were actually ready for us in an envelope.
We were back to the hotel in no time. We walked down the street to a little gyro restaurant and watched them cut meat
off a heated rack to build the most delicious gyros ever, with sour cream, onions, tomatoes, French fries and lots of
meat for a price that seemed so small we felt we weren’t paying our way. Lots of fun. That evening we walked around
the base of the Partheon in the pleasant evening air and we were in love with Greece.
Fresh Gyros
Gyro Heaven
The next day was a strange one. We had the pleasure of not being rushed in the morning for the first time in more than
a week. The breakfast at the hotel was lack luster and way behind what we’d come to expect. Worried about Viki in the
sun, I planned an assault on the Acropolis by coming up through the Agora. We stopped at Hadrian’s Library, the Roman
Agora and the Ancien Agora, which were pleasant, but it was hot. We then climbed up to the Parthenon in the heat of the
day and joined the throng of tourists. Not on my list of fun things to do and I was so glad I had the pleasant
experience the evening before. Similar to Rome, these sites are best visited in the evening when the temperature is
better and the crowds are gone.
The Parthenon
We had some expensive bad tasting drinks at the Parthenon and Viki nearly passed out on a park bench in the shade.
She recovered enough to make it to the Athens
Acropolis Museum, which was not only interesting, but air conditioned.
This museum is built over ruins at the base of the Parthenon and they’ve built a see through glass floor so that you
can walk over the ruins and look down. A very cool experience, especially if you have trouble with heights. The third
floor also has see through glass, so on the main floor you can look down at the ruins or up at the legs/skirts of those
above you. Very unusual. The museum has some great exhibits, but the plaster casts of statutes from the top of the
Parthenon are a sad reminded that the British Museum holds the best treasures of Greece and won’t return what Lord Elgin
removed.
Porch of Erechtheion, Parthenon
Athens
Acropolis Museum
Another trip to gyro heaven was barely enough to revive us. Next my cousin Dan had indicated that my cousin Sue was in
town even though Dan wasn’t. We called Anne Speckhard and she said we were welcome to come by for a swim. This turned
out to be a challenge. There was a one day metro strike on All the cabs were very busy and all the traffic was backed
up. Many cabs turned us down and one even told us he wouldn’t go the direction we wanted as it was too difficult.
We walked many blocks trying to find a location where taxis would do pick ups. We were about to give up when we
found a parked taxi who reluctantly agreed to take us. His fare was shockingly low. At the Speckhard’s, you need
your passport to get past security. They deliver you to the head staff member and he brings you to the family. We
spent time by the pool while attendants brought whatever was asked for and security guards did regular walks of the
grounds. We talked with Leah Speckhard and her friend Victoria. We met Dan Jr. Jessica’s daughter Katriona was also
there. Anne said that she and Dan Jr had to go at 7:30 but we could stay for dinner at 8 as Sue and her daughter Jenny
would be back by then. We hung out by the pool and the veranda. At around 8 staff came to inform us that we were the
only ones left on the grounds and asked if we would like to come inside. At 8:40 Sue hadn’t arrived, due to traffic
jams caused by the strike. We decided to have dinner without waiting for them. They served dinner for Viki and I on
the veranda as the armed security patrolled the grounds. What a bizarre life style. Just before 9 we asked them to
call us a taxi, but before he could, Sue arrived. We chatted for a short period of time and then they asked about
calling a taxi again. I said it was time and they did so. After we provided out destination the cab company responded
that downtown was closed due to the strike and we wouldn’t be getting a cab that night. Sue found us a room among a
myriad of choices. We stayed the night. Early the next morning we found a security guard on the grounds and had them
phone the embassy who arranged a cab for us. I was nervous, but this went without a hitch. From the hotel we took a
train to Piraeus and then had more adventures as cab after cab turned us down for the trip to the ship. Most said no
English and one indicated we were on the wrong side of the street. Eventually as we panicked that we had no idea where
our ship was in the middle of numerous vessels, we found an expensive and short cab ride to our ship. What a relief.
MV Cristal (Istanbul, Delos, Jerusalem, Cairo, Agios Nikolaos)
This was an enjoyable cruise company. Different from the higher end cruise companies in quality, but more than suitably
discounted in price. Some of the differences:
• Ship registry in Greece instead of the Bahamas
• Smaller size of about 1,200 passengers plus some vacancies meant shorter line ups.
• Mainly Greek staff of many ages and with overall more understanding of English than other cruise line staff
• An international aspect, with announcements in English, Greek, French, Spanish and German led by a cruise director
fluent in multiple languages
• A stronger team atmosphere among staff than major cruise lines. Singers also organized bus tours. Dancers arranged
passport visas. Just about every staff member, including women, handled baggage delivery resulting in the fastest and
most efficient processing of luggage I’ve ever seen.
• Some staff had their children on board.
• Excellent food quality, with a little bit of Greek option inserted in each buffet
• Below average shows, but still enjoyed the effort and the sense that they were giving it their best.
MV Cristal, Louis Lines
Istanbul
I was nervous about Istanbul after all our cab troubles in Athens, because we decided to do our own tour and that likely
meant starting off with a taxi ride again. That night we both woke up to see the lights as we went through the narrow passage of the Dardenelles after midnight. Our entrance to Istanbul by sea was grand, with a sail past of the
Blue
Mosque, Hagia Sofia and the Topkapi Palace. We docked right near the bridge and near to the Ruby Princess. That meant we could avoid the taxis altogether – plus the GPS kicked in and help us get our bearings. We left the tourists behind and wound our way a short distance to the bridge. Both sides were lined with fisherman. At the western side were the small boats that rock in the waves and sell fish in much the same manner as a hotdog vendor. We were quickly in to the Egyptian Bazaar and a vendor gave me a free
pistachio Turkish delight. Not my favorite, but glad I tried. From there we headed up to the grounds of Topkapi Palace but had decided not to go in. The Ruby Princess tour group passed us, following the Princess symbol raised above the crowd – not how I care to visit places at all. We went to a small mosque nearby beside Hagia Sofia and then to Haiga Sofia itself. At the ticket booth they only took Turkish lira, so we had to leave the grounds and buy the currency from a designated vendor just outside the gates. Hagia Sofia is an unusual structure and I’m glad I went. It is gloomy even though it lets in considerable light. The large stone structure has the appearance of a giant fortification and doesn’t belie its origins as a church and then a mosque. Today it’s simply a tourist stop. There are some remaining Christian mosaics, but after it became a mosque, the emphasis switched to patterns and text praising Allah. The alter was modified off centre to align with Mecca.
Blue Mosque, Sultan Ahmed Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Blue Mosque
Next we had a very unusual experience at the Blue Mosque. It was closing for 2 hours for prayer and we were turned back. A man who indicated he wasn’t a tour guide convinced them to let us in the exit. Inside we were unnerved that he was a carpet salesman doing his best to make us indebted to him so that we would buy a carpet after our mosque tour. It was interesting to be in the mosque as the crowds dwindled and only the
Moslems remained. We indicated we would not be buying a carpet and he quickly latched on to one of the few remaining tourists in the temple. It was not nearly at beautiful inside as the impression it makes over the city from the outside. We must have been unnerved too as none of our pictures were in focus.
Grand Bazaar
Grand Bazaar
Spice Market
Our last stop was the Grand Bazaar, which we amazingly found without too much trouble. We wandered about through the crowds, carpets, jewelry and vendors rushing to deliver hot glasses of tea. It was pleasantly crazy. Vendors continually and quite politely solicited our business. We asked a couple of times how to find the spice market and received conflicting directions that never helped us along. We left the bazaar and wandered the streets on its edge toward the bridge. We stopped and bought some lamb and chicken gyros. Viki tried to barter from the price of about $2.50 but I told her I thought that bartering was for carpets and jewelry, not for street vendor food. The meal was good and revived us. From there the volume of people in foreign dress and vendors shouting for attention reached a maximum. We were both very comfortable, but I mentioned to Viki that we weren’t in Tourist Land any more. I asked a price on a bronze mortal and pestle and offered slightly less. When the vendor wouldn’t move on the price, I politely said goodbye and was surprised he made no effort to retain my business. None of the tour groups were around and we felt we were getting a more realistic view of Istanbul. The GPS came through for us nicely and we emerged from the chaos right at the bridge and easily returned to the ship. We’d conquered Istanbul on our own!
Delos
Delos was a trip highlight for me. After anchoring at Toulous near Mykonos, the cruise tour had customized a trip from the dock to Delos for a tour of the ruins at the birthplace of Apollo. There were about 30 English speakers in one tour and about 20 Greeks in another. The small enclosed 2 story boat was an adventure in the 6 – 9 foot swells for approximately half an hour. The island was enchanting. No one is allowed to live on the island except archaeological staff. The island had already closed for the day to tourists, so our tour involved the only people on the island. The guide was amazing. She gave us the history and kept us moving about the large expanse of ruins. The building structures are well preserved and only about 1/6 have been excavated. The marble temples have all been plundered over the centuries. From 600 – 300 BC this was a pilgrimage site for Greeks and eventually births and death were forbidden on the island. The dead were buried on nearby Rhenaea Island. This allowed the control of income of pilgrims but also eventually led to no one having an identity with the island. The extensive ruins have a very different feel than Pompeii. The stones are intricate and small instead of massive. The surrounding area is natural instead of enclosed by a city. The tourists are absent except for our small tour. There are no souvenir shops. We visited the temple of Dionysus, the amphitheatre which seated 5,000 the temples for Apollo and the remains of the statue of Apollo. The tour finished beside the lions facing east and guarding the lake where Artemes and Apollo were born under a palm tree. A palm tree has been planted at the location, giving a sense that more than 2 centuries are just a few moments back in time. The tour guide indicated that Delos was the island at the centre of the Cyclades that all the other islands revolve around and the Apollo is the source of light and art in the world. Her reference to us being at the centre of the Greek universe, alone and untouched by the modern world brought tears to my eyes. An unexpected highlight of my time in the universe, as it chose to centre on Greece that day.
Island of Delos, Greece, Remnants of the statue of Apollo
Mykonos
The trip back to Mykonos was even rougher and Viki fought sea sickness. The town itself was quaint with numerous white-washed buildings and narrow streets in a tangle that was fun to wander. The windmills at the edge of town were picturesque but hard to get in a photo due to all the other tourists taking snap shots. We wandered looking for the Pelican nearby, which I thought would be a statute, but turned out to be a live Pelican calmly resting at ground level beside the intersection of a number of pathways. Very strange. The downside of Mykonos for me is that it’s high end tourist. A dish of spaghetti at a local street side restaurant with run $25 or about 3 times the price for the mainland areas.
Jerusalem
At the Israeli port of Ashdod, the Israeli immigration interrogated many passengers and it took more than an hour to disembark the ship. Fighter jets screamed overhead and you knew security was a big deal. The visit to Jerusalem was a disappointment for me. I’d been 47 years earlier, when the city was divided and we couldn’t go to the Jewish side or the wailing wall. This time I couldn’t go to the Dome of the Rock instead, as it was supposedly closed for prayer while we were there. I got the impression subsequently that it was more about it being a major Muslims site that caused it to be missed on the itinerary. The view of the city from the Mount of Olives was fabulous, but I was struck even in my faint memories by how much the wide open spaces had disappeared and how we were the only tourists around last time whereas now the hillside is covered in tour buses. Gethsemane and the Church of all Nations was unusual to me, but typical of the area with many religions physically sharing the same building. The same was true of Jerusalem itself with a Christian, Moslem, Jewish and Armenian quarter. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre continued the sharing of regions between Orthodox Eastern Church, Roman Catholics, the Copts, the Syrian Jacobites, and the Gregorian Armenian. Inside is the site of the resurrection of Christ with an Orthodox mausoleum on the spot of the resurrection, thus making a small church within the larger one. The Eastern Orthodox decorate with bright shiny tacky looking décor that contrasts markedly with the Roman Catholic section of the church. People line up for hours to be blessed on the site the by the Orthodox priest.
Dome of the Rock
Mausoleum over site where Christ died, Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Greek Orthodox, Jerusalem, Church of the Holy Sepulchre
We also walked the streets of Jerusalem. Our Israeli guide was quite anti Moslem and apologized that we needed to go through the Moslem section to follow the steps Christ took. He requested that we not buy anything from the Moslem vendors as there would be good Christian shopping later. He also commented about how unjust it was for ships to try to run the Israeli blockade of Gaza. That issue was deeply on our minds, as our cruise ship in Ashdod was docked directly across from the Rachel Corrie, the ship that had just tried to run the blockade and was now tied up beside our cruise ship in Ashdod. The abandoned ship still had FreeGaza.org painted boldly on its side.
Jerusalem, Wailing Wall
From there we wandered the narrow shaded streets to the Wailing Wall. When I visited 47 years earlier, I could only peer down from the top of the wall on the Arabic side to see the Jewish people against the wall. This time I was at the bottom looking up. There was a metal detector security check to get into the square. It was interesting to see the men and women segregated, leaning their heads against their elbows placed against the wall. Many rocked back and forth in this pose and chanted prayers. Many placed their wishes on notes and jammed these into the cracks of the wall. The wall was chock full of notes and they were falling to the ground like flower petals. The Wailing Wall is the only remaining vestige of the original temple mount.
Gazze, impounded by Israel after 9 crew were killed
Next the tour had a pleasant lunch and then the part I can’t stand – a half hour of shopping at a location that has a deal with the cruise company. This one was almost entirely nativity carvings from olive wood. Very nice, but I can’t support the controlled shopping conditions.
Bethlehem is now completely Palestinian, so the security delays in an out were lengthy. Armed security walked through the bus. The two military personnel looked like teenagers, as did many of the security personnel with rifles that we saw on the streets during our bus travels. Our trip to Bethlehem continued the strange multi religion traditions at the
Church of the Nativity
. The entrance to the church has a large square arch that originally would let in camels, but was filled in first by the Crusaders to a small arch and then by the Greek Orthodox to a half height door called the Door of Humility. This forces all, regardless of their status, to bow before the King of men. The quote of the day came from one of the tourists who refused to enter – “I’m not bowing down to go into some stupid church.” He waited outside. The site of the birth of Jesus is a church that is controlled by the orthodox church, but has an Armenian alter, a Syrian Orthodox alter and an entire Roman Catholic Church wing. The site of the manger and the birth are beneath the Greek Orthodox alter and many proceed down into the cramped space. Two priests were making strange Arabic type chants as we visited and the Greek Orthodox decoration was best described as tacky. The Roman Catholic wing was traditional Catholic décor and is the site of world wide televised ceremony each Christmas.
All in all, we were disappointed, though the view of the city and the Wailing Wall were worth going for. I also had this strange sense of the passing of my original family and of the passing of the city – both to something new and no longer tied to my past.
Egypt
Visiting Egypt is truly a trip to a foreign land! We started out from Port Said with 16 tour buses, two spare buses in case of breakdowns and armed escort vehicles. Amazingly, we had all the side streets and on ramps blocked for the first 2 hours that take us to the outskirts of Cairo. At each intersection, a white clad member of the Tourist Police stood blocking side traffic. This section is the most exotic of the tour day. Farmers in traditional dress with the women in abayas, horse drawn carts, vendors selling fruit at make shift roadside stands, women crossing large irrigation canals on wooden planks suspended over the water, gigantic pigeon coops used to supply meat, grown men riding small donkeys, herds of goats and sheep being tended through brush and sparse vegetation, run down shops and vehicles filled chaotically with goods and people, ram shackled buildings and debris that were actually homes. It looked exactly like Baghdad did 47 years ago. A whole culture stuck unchanged in time, yet frantically going about survival. Amazing.
Crowds waiting for our buses to pass
Armed escort for our bus
Rural Port Said
Rural Port Said
Pigeon coops for food
Cairo was interesting too with frantic traffic and constant noise from horns. Easy to understand that whales must be communicating with each other when you understand that the horns in Cairo are a language unto themselves. A myriad of different short and long patterns to communicate ideas such as “watch out”, “thanks”, “go ahead, it’s clear” and also much less polite expressions. Downtown, in the heart of the chaos, we visited the Egyptian Museum for a little over an hour. This is a must see stop. Photos aren’t allowed and the security screening keeps the cameras out. Given how busy it was, this was actually a benefit. No one posing in front of exhibits. The displays are extensive and cover basically 5,000 to 3,000 years ago. They include gold plated chariots, numerous sarcophagi, tables many metres tall with cuneiform chiseled over every exposed surface and papyrus documents. The main attraction is the King Tut exhibit including 4 rectangular gold plated rectangular coffins, two gold individualized sculptured coffins and the famous head dress. The various coffins all fit inside each other like Ukrainian dolls. Their beauty is enthralling.
Cairo, drive anywhere, walk anywhere
Bread delivery weaving through traffic
Relaxing on the Nile River cruise
Next we went for lunch on a Nile River cruise. This was an unexpected pleasure. The food was great and the upper covered deck provided views of the city and cool breezes. The belly dancing and exotic live music on the lower deck distracted somewhat from the peaceful atmosphere up top.
After that we were off to the Pyramids. Surprisingly, they spring right out of the poverty stricken district of Giza. One minute you are watching people, camels, horses and goats in a maze of side streets and the next minute you are at the base of the pyramid. The sphinx lies below the 3 large pyramids and overlooks Cairo. To the west the city and the ruins both cease immediately and the desert takes over. The pyramid site was a gong show. Add our 16 tour buses to the mix of tourists and the multitude of camels and vendors trying to make money off tourists. No time to be contemplative about the magnificence of the pyramids. Take your photo and fend off the locals. I actually enjoyed the local experience more than the pyramids. First a camel rider asked me to take his picture for free and I refused. It’s their first step toward making you feel you owe them something. Then I had one man tell me I looked Arabic and jammed a cotton agal under my arm pit. When I tried to hand it back he said it was his gift to me and was free. Viki was panicky and told me to discard it. I held it and walked away. He then came back and pulled another agal out. Next he reached to remove my hat and place the agal on my head. I grabbed my hat strongly and indicated no firmly. Meanwhile in the distraction, 3 teenage boys bumped in to Viki trying to pick pocket her purse. She indicated they hadn’t succeeded and I glanced between their hands and her purse. They moved on and the vendor also indicated ok and put his hand out. I have back the agal and we were free to move to the next adventure. I walked across the heat and blowing sand to get a picture toward the city without tourists in it. Another camel rider approached and asked where I was from. When I wouldn’t answer he was angered. Viki was concerned, but I was calm and confident. I said I was from Canada. He smiled said he was trying to offer me a photo opportunity, not trying to sell me a camel. I laughed and we exchanged pleasantries. I was confident that I wasn’t going to take a picture and he sensed this and moved on.
Downtown at Giza
Cairo poverty
Next I stopped at a vendor selling knick knacks. He had two tourists with him that he was trying to sell to. I picked up a small plastic pyramid and asked how much in Euros. Touching the object is a key to a sale. He immediately abandoned the other two tourists. He called me “father” and offered it for $5 Euros. I picked up a plastic blue scarab beetle and offered $3 for the 2 items. He countered with three items for $5. The other tourists complained about the interruption and he explained that he just needed to finish with “father”. Meanwhile I took my $5 Euro spending limit from my secure Velcro pocket and slipped it to him. I was gone in a flash and the other two tourists were perplexed. I was having a blast. I saw a tourist police on a camel and he indicated I should take his picture. I did. Then another fellow on the ground tried to get me into a photo session and I walked away. We went up to some of the stones and then down to the edge of the chaos to get an early photo of our next stop at the sphinx. We were first back to the bus because the heat was too much for Viki. Even there I had fun through the window. They were trying to sell me two large sculptures and a scarf for $10. I kind of liked the King Tut head stone even though it was too big. Using sign language he offered it for $5. I offered $4 and he gave the most pleasant frustrated smile indicating he wasn’t authorized to go any lower. The smile got to me and I left the bus and bought the gigantic souvenir. It was a challenge outside to get the right change and a group of 3 tried hard to upsell me instead, but eventually they mysteriously did have the right change. Lots of fun. We heard quite a few horror stories from less fortunate tourists back on our bus. The camel riders hounded some of them until they paid for the photos they had taken. Even the tourist police extracted money for having their picture taken. One tourist paid $130 for a camel ride when the going rate was about $10. “I just paid $25 for a bag of junk”, one fellow laughed – this was the cotton agal scam that I had avoided. Too bad that Viki was over heated. I would have loved to wander in the heat and blowing sand longer just to see what might have transpired.
The Gong Show
Gong Show 2 - The Sequel
Gong Show 3 - Escape to the Sphinx
Sphinx facing the city - taken from the Pyramids
Sphinx and Great Pyramid of Giza
At the sphinx I was done with bartering and ignored the vendors. The visit there is quite brief. It took me more than half a century to finally get to the pyramids and the experience was over in a matter of seconds. The tour guide reminded me of a fact I’d forgotten – that Napoleon shot off the nose and beard of the sphinx with cannon fire. Quite a macho man.
The tour next had a short demonstration on how papyrus paper is made and then the famous structured shopping opportunity with a vendor chosen by the cruise ship company. I refused to participate, but they did have the most lovely large papyrus pic for $200. Not sure where I would ever put such I thing, but I did love it.
The route back to Alexandria was 3 uneventful hours. Apparently we didn’t need an armed escort once we’d completed our visit. The land was manly fenced farmland until we got near Alexandria. Then we saw the poverty again. Right beside the port were stone buildings that were collapsing and yet you could see that people were living in them. The reality of Egypt made a far stronger impression than its history.
Agios Nikolaos
This stop was a refreshing change from the hectic atmosphere in Cairo. We wandered through the harbor and down to the beaches on the back side of the downtown area. Although it was very windy in the harbor, the beaches we found were sheltered from the wind. The beaches were basically a local family affair and we sat for a long time watching the tranquility of a day at the beach. A nice way to recover from Cairo.
Agios Nikolaos
Athens
It was now time for our second cruise, a 4 day and 3 night excursion on the
Aquamarine. This was a shocker after the Cristal. Even before you passed through the gangway door, the smell took you back. The interior air smelled like carpeting soaked in machine oil and diesel. Add some cigarette smoke and a little air freshener and welcome to your new home. The disappointment continued at the cabin. It was very small, smelled bad, had two small port holes to let a little light in and there were two single beds bolted to the walls so they couldn’t be moved. There was no sitting area so you had to try to turn one of the single beds into your couch. The shower was too small for me to move in and Viki banged her head on the towel rack trying to sit on the toilet. The walls were paper thin, so we heard long diatribes from the Greek gentleman in the cabin next door. At times the in suite radio would become audible and we would twist and turn dials in desperation until we were finally able to shut it down. Hair dryers were available at reception as long as you didn’t use them in your room.
The Aquamarine, Louis Lines
The Aquamarine is a converted ferry boat, so the layout is poor. The main access deck includes the main dining room, so scores of people walked through the dinner sessions to reach the other end of the ship. The hallways were all narrow, so it was awkward for people to pass each other. The elevators held a maximum of 7 people. When they ascended, you could hear cables clinking and clanking. The inside bar near the buffet was the only smoking area on the ship and since it wasn’t enclosed, the smoke carried throughout the ship. The food in the buffet was passable, but it was usually very crowded. Add on top of this that I began to have stomach trouble and I wanted to turn around and leave before the ship sailed.
Mykonos
This was our second trip to Mykonos. We walked the streets briefly. It was sunnier this time around, but almost as windy. I don’t understand the popularity of this location.
Kusadasi
This stop was amazing. We took the tour to Epheseus and we were among the first tourists to arrive at the site. When our tour guide went on with a lengthy dissertation, we ditched her and passed the other tour groups that had gotten ahead of us. Suddenly we had Epheseus all to ourselves. The large two story
Library of Celsus and the famous walkway taken by Cleopatra and Mark Anthony belonged only to us. We went into the amphitheatre and climbed to the top. We sat there alone for about 10 minutes, listening to the doves and enjoying cool spots of shade in solitude. This was pure enjoyment.
Library of Celsus, 115A.D.
Amphitheatre
Kusadasi, Turkey, view from waterfront seating at Burger King!
The port town of Kusadasi was very modern. We walked along the shops on the water and enjoyed ice cream at Burger King with beautiful waterfront seating. We didn’t have time to get the laptop for free internet at the waterfront Starbucks. Epheseus was a tour highlight and Kusadasi was lovely too.
Patmos
We chose not to tour in Patmos. We could see the Fortress of St Mark on the hill. He wrote the book of Revelation here. The town was small and many of the cruise ship passengers chose to sun bathe at the rocky beach in town while locals swam in the sea.
Monastery of St Mark at top right, Patmos, Greece
Patmos, Greece
Heraklion
This was a tour let down. Unfortunately I originally didn’t plan to tour, but I got bored and decided to go to the Palace of Knossos. If I’d researched, I would have taken a 10 to 15 minute cab ride and paid the $6 Euro entrance fee. Using the cruise company cost more than $100 Euros for 2 of us, so I figure this was over priced by about 60 – 70 Euros. The ruins are intricate piles of stone and mazes that are the source of the Minataur myths of a human form with a bulls head that attacked individuals in the caverns of the site. Definitely not on my list of sites to visit.
Palace of Knossos, Heraklion, Crete, Greece
Santorini
The approach to Santorini by ship was impressive and there was a buzz among the passengers. We took the
Fira & Ia tour. First a tender, then a bus twisting and turning up the switch backs, followed by a twisty turny buss ride across the island to the town of
Ia. We were worried that this trip would be a disappointment. Viki was already motion sick when we got off the bus and the heat on the streets was oppressive for us. When we reached the main street all was forgotten. The view from the village of
Ia is simply inspiring. We grabbed some inexpensive soft drinks and walked a short distance to a spot the tour guide recommended for pictures. This was almost unbelievable. We took pictures of the city in one direction and the churches clinging to the cliffs in the other direction. We then sat nearby in the shade to recover. As we did, people kept coming on to the two viewpoints and saying “Oh my God.” One girl said, “Why do I not live here” It was lots of fun sharing the enjoyment. We then took one more look and I noticed the famous viewpoint for sunsets. Viki was instantly revived and we rushed through the streets to catch a glimpse. On the way, a wedding procession in the street was coming toward us. We reached the viewpoint and, even though it was too early for the setting sun, we felt like we were somewhere special, living in a postcard. After that we took the bus to Fira (aka Thira) and descended the exciting cable car, passing the donkeys taking people up and down the slope. Santorini was a dream and it made the cruise worthwhile, though I do recommend finding alternate ways to get there.
from Ia with Fira and cruise ships in the background
London
London was hectic and we were ready to be done with our travels. After an accommodation mix up, we abandoned our hotel and stayed the night with Kelly Huot. We loved their place and the brief time we spent with them. In the morning, we rode the tube with Kelly on her way to work at Baker St. There we caught one of the hop on hop off tour buses. We saw 10 Downing St, St Pauls, the Eye, the Tower Bridge, the Parliament and Westminster Abbey. We ran out of time so we had to abandon the tour and hurry back to Kelly’s for our bags and a quick trip to the airport. The return flight on a 747 was as smooth as could be. Unlike the way over, there was no pressure to close the window shades. With brief breaks in the
clouds, I got amazing views of icy peaks in Greenland, ice flows that looked like a gigantic shattered windshields and a blue iced bay against sheer peaks in Baffin Island. We set foot in Vancouver and it felt like we’d never been
away.
Viki and Kelly
London Eye
Big Ben
Parliament
Tower Bridge
Westminster Abbey
Baffin Island, solid blue ice in the bay
Follow part 1 of our European tour -
by Eurail.
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